Drafting Skirt Variations Using Basic Skirt Block

It’s been a while since I’ve made a drafting video, so here’s one on skirt variations, drafted based on the basic skirt block from the previous post. There are three basic variations in this video, namely:

1. Pencil Skirt. The hem of a pencil skirt tapers towards the hem. Due to the reduced hem, there is a need (usually) to include a vent, slit or box pleat at the centre back or side seam(s) in order to facilitate walking (or running to catch a bus).

2. A-Line Skirt. A skirt with a slight flare at the side seams. There is a limit to how much fullness can be needed to the sides before the skirt will start looking rather like a flattened Christmas tree.

3. Flared Skirt. This skirt has a bit more flare than the A-Line Skirt. Using the Slash and Spread method, the dart is being transformed into fullness in the skirt hem.

These are easy to transform from the basic skirt block and are typically easy to construct, especially the A-Line Skirt and Flared Skirt. The construction of the vent/slit/box pleat for the Pencil Skirt take a wee bit more effort and the seam allowance at these areas will differ slightly from what’s stated below.

To convert these blocks to patterns (i.e. amongst other things, I usually include seam allowances before cutting out the paper), the A-Line and Flared Skirts require the following seam allowances:

1. Waist: 1cm

2. Side Seam: 1.5cm

3. Centre Back (assuming the concealed zipper would be inserted here): 2cm

4. Skirt Hem: 4cm (may be less depending on the finishing)

So, enjoy the quick video! 🙂

Draft your own skirt

Learn how to draft and sew the Denim Skirt to your measurements through our digital workshop. 

Features of the denim skirt: 

• Straight waistband
• Snap button closure or jeans button with machined buttonhole.
• Front fly opening
• Two front round/ J pockets with french seam finishing for pocket bags
• A yoke for better fit
• Two back patch pockets
• Center back slit for easy movement
• H-Silhouette - side seams are straight but will appear tapered when worn
• Finished with serged closed seams with topstitching

What you will learn:

• Take your measurements
• Draft the basic skirt block that gives smooth sides curve
• Draft the style line
• Dart manipulation from basic skirt block to ensure good fits 
• Block to pattern conversion
• Fabric Layout
• Construction of the skirt (including how to attach the front fly zipper)

Find out more here!